On November 4th Fred the bike is embarking on a six month journey across Southeast Asia. Starting in Singapore, Fred plans to make his way up the west coast of Malaysia, across Thailand, Cambodia, up through Vietnam and into Laos. After that... who knows? Fred invites you to follow him through his adventure. Any advice from fellow travelers is always welcome.

Sunday, November 30, 2008

Trang-Krabi

Total Distance:188.52
Total Time:10h53m11s
Average Speed:17.3km/h
Maximum Speed:50.5km/h
Total Distance So Far:796.19km

Before I begin, I keep meaning to tell you, I haven't been including any distance not travelled by bike nor the distance spent travelling around places on bike in a leisurely fashion. I feel this would "fudge" the numbers, so to speak.
Let me start by saying today was a far less successful day than those past. I still love Thailand and, just to clarify, do not hold anything that happened upon Thailand or the people who reside here. The first 75km of today's ride was non-stop rain. We're not talking a little mist either. It was a full on down pore. That alone wasn't actually that bad. It was sort of a nice break from the blistering heat. It was rather rainy though, which is my least favorite of conditions to ride in. It makes it like you are constantly going uphill. I was, once again chased by many dogs today. I think I'm going to invest in a water pistol and fill it with bleach or something to spray in their eyes. I know it sounds cruel, but some of them are honestly going in for the kill. The worst thing that happened today, and I do feel really bad about it despite my recently acquired distaste for the Canine kind, I ran over a dog. If all dogs go to heaven, I'm surely going to hell. He was just a little guy too. I didn't kill him, at least I don't think I did. He did get up and stagger off yelping after. I was trying to read a road sign, which can be difficult as the majority of them are in Thai, and I didn't even see him there. The last bad thing that happened was that I got lost. Perhaps it was my punishment for running down Benji. The ride from Trang to Krabi should really have only been about 139km. I didn't actually want to stay in the town, but in one of the places down by the beach. I searched high and low and could find no such places. I know they exist. I have a friend staying in one as we speak. I guess I'm just dense. It added at least an extra 2 hours to today's ride. Eventually I gave up and stayed in town, which turned out to be pretty cool. At least now I know I can do a 190km day.
Last night I stayed in Trang, where my problems with the language barrier continued. It was a pretty boring place. Sometimes the worst part of a bike tour can be where you end up stopping. Everyone there goes to bed at 8pm. Not very fun when you don't arrive until mid-afternoon. Krabi is much better. There's more tourists who come here, so it's a little easier finding people who speak English. I'm going to try to learn some Thai while I here. At least the basics, like how to order food and ask where a hotel is.
I think I will be here a couple of days. I can't linger too long though, as you only receive a 30 day visa upon entering Thailand. I'm going to do Thailand in two shots. One now (the South) and one after leaving Laos (the North). Still it's a long way to the Cambodian border, so I can't dilly-dally.

Satun-Trang

Total Distance:141.12km
Total Time:7h54m44s
Average Speed:17.8km/h
Maximum Speed:44.0km/h
Total Distance So Far:607.67km

So, I finally made it to Thailand. I arrived in Satun via ferry. Unfortunately, I allowed my laziness to get the best of me and didn't quite make the morning boat. I got to Satun at about 2:00pm, which was too late to start cycling. So, I had no option but to spend the night there. Finding a place to stay in Satun was no easy feat. I did find a place, but unfortunately had to share it with various creepy-crawlies. I spen tthe night enjoying the company of an entire nest of wasps just above the door inside my room. I suppose it could have been worse... I don't know how exactly. I woke early the next morning and was off like a dress on a prom date.
Riding through Southern Thailand was AMAZING! I was impressed by Malaysia. I think mainly because it was something I had never seen before. Malaysia is nothing compared to this. (Sorry Malaysia, I still love you) Imagine riding through a land with towering mountains, fillrd with hidden caves, waterfalls, and beaches. Bamboo huts line the roads. Everything looks beautiful and pristine. This is where I am now. The roads in Thailand, so far, are just as good as Malaysia. The terrain is a little more challenging. That is to say, there are actually hiss that exist here. It's not too challenging though, just enough to keep it interesting. The people are so nice. Everyone, and I do mean everyone, shouts hello to me on the road. I think you get the point. I really like Thailand so far.
I do however have a couple of complaints. The first, and most important particularly to any of you other cyclists put there, is the obscene amount of dogs here. Some are wild, some domestic, I'm positive a few have been rabid. One thing is for sure, they all love to chase down cyclists. They're fast little buggers too. I experienced a couple of problems with dogs in Malaysia, but nothing like this. It's actually pretty terrifying. The second complaint I have, to no fault of the Thai people of course, is the language barrier. I can't even order a meal in a restaurant. I've taken to just sitting there looking idiotic until they bring me something. It's actually worked out. I've had some of the best food since being here. Still, it's hard not being able to communicate in the least. I guess I have to work on my Thai.
So that was my first impression of Thailand, and it was a great one!

The Islands

After all that biking I decided it was time for a rest. A well deserved rest, I might add. I started off by spending a couple of days in Georgetown, on Penang. A very cool city, filled with travellers from around the glob. Most of whom had been travelling for quite some time, with little or no intention of returning to their place of origin any time soon. I met all sorts of folks hanging around that island. The good, the bad, and the ugly. I have to say, my favorite part of Penang was definitely the architecture. European inspired buildings line the streets of this Malaysian Island. It was a great place to wonder around, just checking things out.
After a few days in Penang Fred and I headed to Lankawi via ferry. Lankawi was completely different from Penang. Filled with tourists and geared totally toward them, I must say that sort of thing is not really my cup of tea. Still it was a great place to lay around the beach. I should also mention, as a duty free zone, beer is insanely cheap in Lankawi. We're talking 30 cents Canadian a beer. However everything else is over-priced. I did how ever meet a couple of interesting people. Among them, Les, who is training for the Iron Man Competition. Les, if you're reading this, good luck to you!
I did manage to squeeze a little biking into my time on Lankawi. A great place to bike. My cycling computer broke, and I happened to find a pretty cool little bike shop where I could replace it. I've had good luck with these things so far.
So that was my holiday from my holiday. After a couple of days soaking up the sun in Lankawi, I was off to Satun to resume a cyclists life.

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Taiping-Penang

Total distance:92.42km
Total time:4h40m19s
Average Speed:19.78km/h
Maximum Speed:48.48km/h
Total Distance So Far:456.55km

My stay in Taiping was rather uneventful. Excluding, of course, my experience with the AJ Special. I awoke early in order to get a head start. I left Taiping just before 8:00am. I searched for somewhere to have something, anything, for breakfast that wasn't rice, but to no avail. Finally I decided just to eat some of the fruit I had received as a gift the day before along with some peanuts I had in my bag. With a full tank, I was ready to hit the road.
The ride to Penang, again, was rather flawless. There was a fair amount of construction on the roads, which slowed things down a bit. The day was hot. The hottest so far. I tried to keep well hydrated and stopped for plenty of breaks, but there was really no escaping the blistering Malaysian sun. By the time I got to the Ferry Teriminal to Penang I was going a little mad from the heat.
I got off the ferry and found a hostel almost instantly. Accomodations here are very cheap, and the rooms are clean. It's a nice change from a few of the places I've stayed on the road. There are a lot of other travellers here. Most of whom are somewhat long term. It was nice to finally be in a place where there were people ready, willing , and able to engage in conversation. It's always interesting to here other people's experiences. Other than my second day of cycling, I have yet to meet other cyclists. I am told, however, that there are plenty in Thailand and Vietnam. I look forward to running into them.
Penang is a beautiful sight. I think I will stay for at least a couple of days and absorb some of the laid back beach life attitude. After that I will haed to Thailand. I have no definitive route yet, but let you know when I figure it out.

Pankor-Taiping

Total Distance:90.94km
Total Time:4h43m03s
Average speed:19.23km/h
Maximum Speed:42.68km/h
Total Distance So Far:364.13km

Sorry I haven't posted for a few days. Access to computers has been few and far between. After a couple of well deserved days rest in Pankor, I hit the road again and headed up to Taiping. Pankor was lovely. Beautiful white sandy beaches, tons of good food. It was quite touristy, which I didn't mind as it had been a while since I'd had anyone to speak to. The unfortunate part was most of the tourists pretty much stuck to themselves. That's okay, like I said it gave me a oppertunity for a much needed rest. I took Fred out on a ride around the island. It was very hilly, which was a nice change of pace. The ride from Pankor to Taiping was relatively flawless. The weather was rather hot. It wasn't unbearable though. The terrain still remained flat. There was a couple of hills near Taiping. I don't know that I would even qualify them as hills. More like slight bumps in the road.
It was a relatively boring ride. I'm afraid I don't have much to report. I stopped for a juice at a little village. There was an older man who took quite a shine to me. He asked me questions about my trip and how I liked Malaysia so far. I told him I liked it very much. before a left he loaded me up with free fruit. For whatever reason the locals have taken to feeding me. I don't mind. Free food is the best kind.
Taiping was far from exciting. I went to an Indian place for dinner. On the menu they had something called the "AJ Special". When I asked what it was I was told it was special naan. "You should have chicken with it", the waiter said. I agreed. When the food came out I was unpleasantly surprised. The "AJ Special" consisted of a peice of naan topped with icing, bananas, strawberry syrup, and multi-colored sprinkles. It realy was not very good, and not at all what I expected. It didn't exactly compliment the chicken either. I ate it anyway. I was very hungry.
So I guess the advice I can give you from this part of my trip is, if your ever in Taiping at an Indian restaurant, DON'T ORDER THE AJ SPECIAL!